DAY 2
Arrive in Bologna; Visit downtown Bologna and Ferrara

DAY 3
Visit Venice

DAY 4
Visit downtown Bologna; Depart for Naples

DAY 5
Visit Pompeii

DAY 6
Visit downtown Naples

DAY 7
Depart for Rome; Visit Vatican and Trivi Fountain

DAY 8
Visit Colloseum, Roman and Imperial Forums

DAY 9
Visit Villa Borghese Museum

DAY 10
Depart for Siena

DAY 11
Visit downtown Siena

DAY 12
Depart Siena for Milan; Visit downtown Milan

DAY 13
Depart Milan for Frankfurt via Basel, Switzerland

DAY 14
Depart Frankfurt for Pittsburgh

The high-speed German trains were absolutely the  most comfortable trains we have been in.  Since we had not reserved a seat, however, we kept having to change seats a lot.  Since the trip to Bologna, Italy was overnight, we decided to spend the afternoon in Munich.  It was cloudy, wet day in Munich, but to our delight, we found a farmer's market which sold fruits that even we had not heard of before!  The sleeping compartment was cramped, but afforded us some privacy especially with a sink in the cabin.  They also provided us some drinking water, hand towels and soap.  The train ride was fine, but it would have been helpful to have an alarm clock.  We didn't sleep much since we were nervous about missing our stop...plus, the train conductor takes your passport when you board (to prevent you from hopping off the train in the middle of the night!).

We arrived in Bologna, Italy at about 7am, a little worn out from jet lag and lack of sleep as well as a little haggard since we had no hotel room since we landed 24 hours before.  The Sofitel hotel was right across the street and they were kind enough to let us check in early (very early).  As a result, we were refreshed and back outside by about 9am and decided to walk around downtown Bologna.  We then spent the afternoon in Ferrara instead.  One of the nice things about the Eurorail pass is that you can hop on and off any train. 

Downtown Bologna has a central plaza.  To the left were two towers, one still whole and one broken off.  The towers made us wonder if the Italians had troubles building straight since these were leaning towers.  On our last day in Bologna, we climbed one of the towers.  This was a treat sine we cancelled our trip to Pisa since the tower was closed off till the end of 2001.

Ferrara seemed like a sleepy little town, but surprisingly, it was the most tourist-friendly town.  The tiny train station had an information booth and they eagerly provide you with maps, guide books and suggested itineraries free of charge.  We enjoyed our walk through the town to the Castle which offers a grand view of Ferrara.

Day 3 was reserved for Venice.  We bought an all-day ticket for the vaporetto rather than spending money on the gondolas.   As you rode through the canals, you noticed that buildings under construction were covered with fake facades that look like the actual building underneath.  First stop was St.Mark's Sq.  We stood in line to enter the Basilica and took in the view of St.Mark's Sq. from the second floor balcony (you have to pay extra to get to that section of the Basilica.) There were a lot of tourists and pigeons, but the odd thing is that we didn't mind at all.  There is something about Venice that makes you forget everything and absorb the scenery.  We tried to avoid the crowds by walking on side streets, and ended up on extremely narrow dead-end streets (that end right at the canal)!

The next day was to be spent in Ravenna.  However, because of an impending railroad strike, we thought it was best to leave Bologna and reach our next destination before the strike.  As a result, we were in Naples a day early.  The Holiday Inn was not exactly walking distance (if you have luggage) but still convenient - free shuttle service to the train station and downtown, free Internet access and located on a plaza where local families hang out in the evenings. 

Day 5 was spent in downtown Naples.  The highlight was eating lunch at the place where Pizza Margherita was invented in 1889 in honor of Queen Margherita (Antica Pizzeria Brandi). There were hardly any tourists in the palace downtown and the museum had an excellent collection of artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum.  It was worth the trip to the museum since a lot of the frescos and mosaics from Pompeii have been removed and brought to this museum.

On Day 6 we took the Circumvesuviana (Bay of Naples train system) to get to Pompeii Scavi (Pompeii Ruins).  A British couple joined us on our adventures.  The one restaurant in the ruins provided us with some lunch and energy to complete the second half of the map.  It was very hot and there was plenty to see.  It was amazing to see an entire city still standing - the ruts in the roads left by carriages, the ovens in the bakery, and the casts of the bodies that were found.  Mt. Vesuvius was looming in the background.  (When we were visiting Pompeii, Mt.Etna in Sicily was erupting.)

The next day, it was time to go to Rome.  Rome was a totally different experience from the first instant -- gypsies in the train station, crowded and a guady hotel that was out of the way.  We checked in and took a cab to the Vatican Museum.  It was crowded, but we saw everything, including the restored Sistine Chapel.  There are plenty of guards who make sure that you take no pictures inside!  After visiting St.Peter's Basilica, we took the subway to the Spanish Steps and Trivi fountain.  Both were overcrowded and filled with tourists and South Asian vendors selling knick-knacks such as plastic roses and silly putty.  It was not a positive experience at all. 

Day 8 was spent seeing ancient Rome: the Colloseum, Roman Forum and Imperial Forum.  (One tip is to pay extra for the guided tour at the Colloseum - you get to return at an assigned time rather than waiting in the ticket line for an hour.)  They have built a partial floor in the center so that you can imagine what the Colloseum really looked like.  Day 9 was spent exploring the Villa Borghese (near the hotel) followed by dinner at a door-side pizzaria.

All in all, Rome was not a positive experience and we gladly left the city a day early.  The train to Siena required a change in Chiusi. Since our train was over 30mins late, we missed our connection and had to wait for the next train.  We checked in our bags at the train station lockers (very handy service) and then wandered through Chiusi at siesta-time but had our fill of Nutella and orange gelati.  The Best Western was located closer to the train station than to town, but there was a convenient bus stop outside.

Siena became our favorite city.  The Medieval city was spectacular and there weren't as many people as in Rome.  Every where we ate, the food was delicious.  The saffron and chili pasta made by our hotel chef was probably the most unique. Siena offers lots of opportunities to climb torres (towers).  The city is organized starting from a fan shaped town center (Piazza del Campo).  The town has numerous "rival" sections that compete annually in a horse race.  A medieval atmosphere prevails in the city, with colored flags hanging on house walls to mark the boundaries of each "contrada".  So, as you walk through Siena, the colors change as do the flags bearing the different logos: the elephant, turtle, fish, etc. We missed out on seeing San Gimignano which is credited with having the world's first skyscrapers.

Next stop was Milan.  It was to be a 1/2 day stop just to see the Last Supper, but Srini got food poisoning and we ended up spending 3 hours in an Italian emergency room instead.  Alas, Milan was viewed from the outside only.  One nice thing was that the Hilton Hotel was spectacular.  The best hotel during the entire trip as well as the best price:quality ratio!  Milan seemed like a very nice and comfortable city that we will have to re-visit another time.

Day 13 meant retracing our way back to Frankfurt.  We arranged it so that we could stop over in Switzerland for half a day.  Basel, Switzerland was nice, but expensive.  We had a good 1/2 day and stocked up on chocolates for the long plane ride home the next morning. Aside from long flight delays in the Dulles Airport, we made it home safe and sound.

Venice

Venice

Venice

Pizza Brandi

Pompeii Scavi

Pompeii Scavi

 Pompeii Scavi

Pantheon, Rome

Sistine Chapel

Sistine Chapel

St.Peters

Last Supper, Milan